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    Healthy eating: The mind games of supermarkets

    2014-10-14 17:13 China Daily Web Editor: Yao Lan
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    Healthy eating: The mind games of supermarkets

    Every time you enter the supermarket, you're being manipulated. By design, all of the basics you're just dropping by to pick up lie on the far side of a sea of temptation: the eggs, milk, and bread are blocked by fruit snacks, those fancy new chips, and a display of artisanal beef jerky. If that wasn't enough, your kids are targets too: all the cereal at the eye level of a child sitting in a shopping cart is pasted with cartoon blandishments, the better to lure them in with.

    But could we be manipulated for the better? The average food manufacturer has little reason to divert us from their high-fat, high-sugar, high-deliciousness products. Yet given that we are already being influenced, one can wonder whether stores might eventually see the benefit – perhaps administered through public health-related tax cuts – to making the produce section into a wonderland that has the kids screaming for kale.

    Even within our current stores, it isn't difficult to nudge people in a better direction, at least in the short term. Esther Papies, a professor of social psychology at Utrecht University in the Netherlands, found that handing out recipe flyers at a store entrance that included words like "healthy" and "low-calorie" caused people who were overweight or dieting to subconsciously buy fewer snacks. They took a whopping 75% fewer snack items to the checkouts than those who received the control flier, which did not have the health-related terms on it. Seeing those words – being primed by them – activated people's existing goals and reminded them what they could do now to meet them, without the shoppers really taking notice, says Papies.

    Other tricks have been proposed by Brian Wansink, a professor of consumer behaviour at Cornell who's well known for his research into the psychology of eating. Some of his latest work takes an earlier finding – that people increase their fruit and vegetable intake by 24% if they are told that half of their dinner plate should be reserved for these foods – and applies it to supermarket shopping. Wansink found that dividing a grocery cart in two, with half to be used only for fruits, vegetables, dairy, and meat, causes people to spend more than twice as much on fruits and vegetables than people without a partition – $3.65 versus $1.82 on fruits and $5.19 versus $2.17 on vegetables. The idea is that the partition implies the existence of a social norm that consumers try to meet.

    Anne Escaron, a public health researcher at the University of California, Los Angeles, has co-authored a review of studies into supermarket interventions for promoting healthy shopping that stretch back over 40 years. She says that, in general, the more angles covered by the interventions, the more successful they have been overall in shifting consumers' habits. For instance, while using signs on store shelves that promote healthy shopping might help, if this is combined with some subtle price manipulation, the intervention is more likely to be effective. "Any way that you can catch more than one impulse that someone may have in the grocery store, the more you're going to be able to influence consumer choices," she says.

    Interventions that shops could incorporate in the long term are a bit more of a puzzle, though. Knocking down the price of a healthy product far enough will make it fly off the shelves, says Karen Glanz, a professor of epidemiology at University of Pennsylvania. "But the downside is somebody's got to pay for [the price cuts]," she points out. She has also learned that we're not all open to manipulation in the same way. For instance, she has found from interviews with shoppers in low-income areas that highlighting how healthy a product is can send the message that it will taste bad, rather than convincing them to buy it.

    Milk on the left

    But while emphasising healthiness may not work everywhere, other nudging techniques might. For a study published this year, Glanz and her collaborators re-shuffled the beverages sections of grocery stores so that low- or no-calorie drinks such as water took up more display space in the sweet spot at eye level, and the dairy sections so that skimmed milk, rather than whole milk, sat on the left side of the case, where consumers usually look first. They also marked them with coloured signs, though these had no health information on them. These interventions did not require priming or giving consumers a deal, but they boosted sales of skimmed milk and water all the same. Glanz recently secured funding from the US National Institutes of Health for a large, two-year study that directly addresses how stores could cause significant changes in shoppers' habits with such subtle changes.

    It could be that the most sustainable interventions, like the ones that currently route you past the snacks or put objects at the ends of aisles where they are emphasised for the purposes of selling more, aren't ones you necessarily notice. Produce sections are already placed just inside the front doors of stores, to give an impression of freshness and healthiness that then permeates the rest of your trip. High-end stores like Whole Foods Market, which has stores across North America and in London, have led a charge in primping up produce sections even further, including offering samples and emphasising information about food's origins.

    These stores might not yet have found a design that makes kale irresistible to kids, but greater focus on produce and swapping around items so that healthier options take up more of the shelf real estate than they do now might have a larger effect that you'd imagine. How will the health-conscious grocery store of the future look? It might be surprisingly similar to today's, with most of the changes that alter shoppers' behaviour going barely noticed by the customer.

    It might feel strange to think that are so easily swayed without you realising. But embrace the fact that you are not all your conscious mind desires.

    超市里暗藏的那些“潛規則”

    每每進超市,你都被操控。你本來是來買雞蛋、牛奶、面包這些必需品的,但是超市將這些東西都設計在很遠的地方,要買到它們,你必須穿過無數誘惑:果蔬小吃、新款薯片、手工牛肉干擺放區。如果這樣你都無動于衷,那還有你的孩子:坐在購物車里的孩子平視之處就是谷類食品,上面的卡通圖案就像在“召喚”他們。

    但我們能不能被操控著去買更健康的食物呢?生產商沒有理由勸我們不買大眾偏愛的高脂、高糖、高香精食品。但既然我們已經被影響了,有人就想了,店家最終能否看清個中利益呢——或許,公眾健康類稅收優惠是個解決之道——把食品區變成一個樂園,讓每個孩子都爭著搶著要甘藍菜。

    至少短期來看,即使在目前的商店內,要把顧客引往健康食品區也不是太難。荷蘭烏得勒支大學(Utrecht University)社會心理學教授埃斯特·佩皮斯(Esther Papies)發現,在商店入口發放印有“健康”和“低卡路里”字樣的食譜傳單,能讓超重和節食人群下意識地少買些零食。比起那些拿到未印有健康信息傳單的人來說,前者少買了75%的零食。佩皮斯說,看看這些詞的魔力,它能潛移默化地激勵人們從現在做起,提醒他們努力實現目標。

    因研究飲食心理而聞名的康奈爾大學消費者行為學教授布萊恩·文森克(Brian Wansink)也揭秘了一些小伎倆。他近期的一些研究也用到了早期的發現——如果告訴消費者,他們的餐盤要留一半放水果和蔬菜,人們會多吃24%的果蔬——超市購物亦是如此。文森克發現,將購物車一分為二,其中一半規定只能放水果、蔬菜、奶制品和肉制品,此類消費者會比一般人多買一倍多的水果蔬菜——水果:$3.65比$1.82,蔬菜:$5.19比$2.17。秘訣就是,劃分讓消費者覺得這是一種社會規范,他們就會盡量去做到。

    加利福尼亞大學的公共衛生研究院安妮·埃斯卡隆(Anne Escaron)參與撰寫了關于40年前超市對推廣健康購物干預手段的評論。她表示,總的來說,超市干預得越多,越能影響消費者行為。比如,雖然購物架上的標語能起到推廣健康購物的作用,但如果能再加上一些價格隱性操控,效果就更好了。她說:“掌握越多消費者動向,就越能影響他們購物選擇。”

    若要商店長期干預,就需要費些腦筋。賓夕法尼亞大學(University of Pennsylvania)的流行病學教授凱倫·格蘭茨(Karen Glanz,)說,降低健康食品價格當然會使之熱銷,但她也表示:“總得有人彌補這個差價。”她也發現,每個人受操控的方式還不一樣。比如,在對低收入地區的消費者采訪中,她發現這類購物者覺得健康食品就是“難吃”的代名詞,更不會想買了。

    擺在左邊的牛奶

    雖說推廣健康理念不是“萬金油”,但還是有一些通用的竅門。在今年出版的一項研究中,格蘭茨及其合作人員重新調整了商店的飲品區。經調整,顧客平視之處就有很多像水這樣零熱量或低熱量飲品。在奶制品區,顧客習慣先看的左側會是脫脂奶,而非全脂奶。他們用彩色標簽突出產品,但上面并沒有其它健康信息。這些干預手段無需花哨的包裝或折扣,但也提升了脫脂奶和水制品的銷量。最近,格蘭茨一項為期兩年的大型研究項目得到了美國國立衛生研究院(the US National Institutes of Health)的資金支持,該項目研究商店如何能以微小變化深刻影響顧客選擇。

    或許像引導你走過零食,或為增加銷量而把物品放置走廊盡頭這類最可持續的干預,已不足以引起你的注意。為了讓你在購物的全程都有一種新鮮和健康的感覺,超市早就將食品區設在正門口,目之所及皆有食物。像全食超市(Whole Foods Market)這樣在全北美和倫敦均有門店的高端商店,在產品區的包裝上更是先人一步,他們會提供樣品,并凸顯食品來源。

    這些商店可能暫時還沒想到何種設計能讓兒童愛上甘藍菜,但關注食品,調換位置,增放健康食品的效果會讓你喜出望外。未來的健康商店會是什么樣?可能它看上去和今天的商店驚人的相似,因為很多影響消費行為的改變消費者都看不出來。

    你或許對自己不知不覺地就受擺布還有點訝異,但有時候我們就是不受自己的意識控制的,接受這個事實吧。

     

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