Overlooking the bustle of the Gongti area from third- and fourth-floor dining rooms on Hong Street, Yi Jia Ran is a quiet oasis in the humming heart of China's capital. Customized from Jingdezhen, a pair of delicate chopsticks perches alongside charmingly painted tableware to create a tiny tableau of Chinese style and modern art.
There is no disturbing smell of hotpot when you are in the restaurant, and no smoky aura lingers in your clothes when you get home. "That's because the soup stocks are totally natural and fresh," our host says. "There is also no recycled oil, and no MSG."
There are other joys to be found in the soups. Like in most hotpot eateries, there are several soups to choose from, and you can order two different ones in a split soup basin.
We opt for one broth that is spicy and one that is not, and the latter provides the first surprise of the night. The soup was not only rich but studded with chunks of tomato and papaya－a pairing that sounded weird but tasted terrific. The tropical fruit added summer freshness as well as flavor. (I've added papaya, a fruit I normally consider bland compared to other fruits of the season, to my next shopping list.)
